How to distribute your body weight
Like that, the pressure coming from the front leg creates greater contact area of the surfboard with the water and better ability to slice the water faster. It is important to mention, that if we place our feet too much forward on the board, shifting our body weight forward will make the nose sink in water so always be aware where your feet land when popping up.
The secret is learning this mechanism of which we can shift and play with our body weight forward and backward between the knees based on our board’s position on the water. If we feel too much pressure on the front and we afraid to nose dive, we shift our body backwards. On the other hand, if we feel like we’re breaking, we want to shit our body forward so we can accelerate.
How do you know if you have enough speed?
The best indicator is always the waves itself. When surfing, we are basically using the energy of the wave to move forward with it. The closer we are to the breaking point of the wave, the more power it has. It means that if we’re going too slow the wave will ‘follow’ us quickly and get us. On the other hand, if we’re going too fast, we will get far from the breaking point of the wave where the energy is and we will slowly lose our speed since we’re too far from the source of energy. The secret is to accelerate when we feel like the wave is going faster than us, and break when we feel we’re getting far from the peak of the wave. Later on, we will learn different techniques and maneuvers that will help us use the speed we generate to always get back to the peak of the wave.