Surfing, ethics and everything in between
It is no secret that surfing has grown hugely in recent years and become very popular. On one hand, this gives us a huge choice of boards, new surf-trip destinations and many other benefits. On the other hand, it forces us to deal with more crowded and more varied lineups than ever.
Crowds are felt almost everywhere you go – on a surf trip to Sri Lanka, a surf holiday in the Maldives or in Bali – so you will need to understand how to deal with the number of people in the water. Understanding the rules, even if they are unwritten and nobody enforces them, is essential. First, it keeps us safe and in one piece. Second, it decides what kind of ambassadors we are on our next surf trip.
Surfing is a sport of kings that gives you many tools for life. As the surfing community grows every day, everyone wants to catch waves and show their skills. Whether you are a beginner or experienced, arriving at a new spot or destination always comes with some fear, usually from not knowing the place, the water or the local surfers. Following the social codes and norms of surfing will always help you get along and enjoy the session.
Tips to help everyone share the peak with respect and safety
Be easy-going, polite and low-profile
Surfing takes you to many places around the world, from the beaches of your home country to exotic destinations. When you arrive somewhere new, keep a low profile. If you choose to stand out, you may step on someone’s toes, and that leads to unpleasant situations in the water.
Choose the right spot for you
In other words, be honest with yourself about your level. Some beaches offer steep, fast, powerful and sometimes hollow waves; others offer small, fat, slow waves that break over a long distance. Watch the spot and work out the best place for your session: the paddle distance and the safest route to the peak (a route that will not endanger or disturb anyone riding a wave – usually around the break), and a comfortable spot that is not crowded and not next to surf schools.
Do not drop in on other surfers
Everyone wants to surf, have fun and spend as many hours in the water as possible. Often everyone wants the same wave, but only one surfer can ride it. How do you know whose wave it is? In surfing, as in life, respect others to be respected. The right of way goes to the surfer closest to the peak (the point where the wave breaks first). So if the wave breaks to the left, the surfer with priority is the one on your right; if it breaks to the right, the surfer with priority is on your left. Learn to scan around you while paddling for a wave to avoid interference.
How to avoid being dropped in on
At some point every surfer, by mistake or on purpose, will drop in on someone. It is a dangerous situation that is better avoided, and it can escalate. Prevent it by keeping eye contact with everyone around you and opening a line of communication with the surfers nearby – a simple “hello” or “good morning” starts the session on the right foot.
Do not be a snake
“Snake”, “wave hog” and other animal names are always aimed at surfers who disrespect others. A snake is someone who sees that the next wave is coming to you and that you have priority, and quietly paddles around you to position himself in a way that blocks the surfer who was first in line. A wave hog is a surfer – good or even pro – who comes into the session in a fighting mood to take every wave: sometimes the waves really are his, but often he just paddles around everyone and steals their waves.
Never let go of your board
The sea is nature – we cannot control it or even know what will happen in a few minutes. It can catch you unprepared, and it is your responsibility to prevent that. When a big wave catches you off guard, the instinct is to let go of the board and dive under the wave or set. This puts every surfer nearby in danger: the leash stretches and the board hits someone, or the leash snaps and the board flies towards the beach through other surfers – and you are left without flotation, endangering yourself as well. The conclusion: know your abilities, choose the days (battles) you take part in, and always check your equipment before every session.
Paddle wide of the surfers at the peak
It is tempting to follow the hot surfer who catches every wave and stick to him, hoping his luck rubs off. That may help on crowded days with few waves, but it is the worst idea to apply in every session. Paddling close to others and trying to catch their waves is a recipe for disaster. To avoid friction, paddle towards the quieter areas of the peak, avoid paddling for a wave together with another surfer, and paddle back to the peak wide, so you do not disturb surfers riding waves or paddling back out.
Communicate
Wherever you go, surf or relax, communicate with the people around you – at the bar, at a party, in the water or on the beach. A “hi” here and an “aloha” there always helps you get on with people, and doors open faster.
Respect the locals
Locals are the people who grew up there, who come to the spot every day, who look after it when something happens and who celebrate there when there is a reason to party. Wherever you go, it is not your natural place, and the burden of proof is on you. Behave maturely and respectfully, and give up situations you are not sure you deserve or that the locals may see negatively.
If you mess up, say sorry
Life is not perfect, and sometimes you will mess up. The most important thing is to be mature and understand the situation. The simplest and most important thing is to say s-o-r-r-y and make sure everything is OK. That way you can keep enjoying the session without worry or bad credit.
Yes, the list is long, and you do not need to memorize it word for word. Over time it becomes part of you. As surfers you will learn to find inspiration and satisfaction after every session – things you cannot buy in a shop. If this matters to you as much as it matters to us, you will be first-class surfers. Surfers who respect the ethics of surfing as they respect their families become better people, and we can all surf and enjoy without fights or misunderstandings.
As Dorian Paskowitz once said: “If everyone surfed, there would be no wars.”
Have another tip for respectful and safe surfing that we left out? Write to us.
