Pemba is not just another dive destination – it is a parallel world. From the moment you leave the small harbor of Chake Chake and sail north along the green coastline, it is clear that something here is different. The island still feels like a well-kept secret, with wild nature, empty beaches and reefs that look as if no hand has touched them since they were created. Pemba offers exceptionally healthy reefs, distance from over-tourism, and dives with walls, deep drifts and extraordinary biodiversity.
Every time I jump into the water, I feel all over again why I fell in love with this place.
From the field – my Pemba dive diary
Dive 1: Swiss Reef – the dive that got my pulse back
Swiss Reef is one of the sites I love returning to most. You reach it after a short boat ride, and when you roll off the boat the current grabs you immediately and starts telling its story. The site is known as a deep, strong drift for experienced divers, with tall coral formations and currents that bring in big fish.
On my last dive there I found myself floating between “mountains” of giant barrel sponges. Suddenly, out of the blue, came a large group of groupers, followed by a true prince of the reef: a whitetip reef shark, patrolling the wall like a king in his own world. On this drift you do not dive – you fly. It flows so smoothly that you feel the reef is passing you, not the other way around.
Dive 2: Misali Island – the most colorful world I know
The Misali reserve is like a painting poured into the sea. The area is known for colorful reefs, caves, walls and encounters with sea turtles.
We entered the water early in the morning, as the first rays of sun broke the surface. When we reached 18 meters, the whole reef lit up like a stage. Huge schools of fusiliers streamed from side to side like colorful smoke. In the middle of it all a giant turtle appeared, calm as if the whole world was his. He came almost within arm’s reach, looked at me for a moment and moved on.
It was one of those dives that feels like a dream – and you realize that nature in Pemba moves at its own pace, unbothered by humans.
Dive 3: Shimba Hills – the quiet kingdom
After the currents and walls, it is sometimes nice to catch your breath in calmer water. Shimba Hills is a gentler site with soft slopes and weak currents – ideal for beginners and for anyone who wants to enjoy macro and delicate marine life. It is known for its richness: schools of fusiliers, triggerfish, sea turtles and countless small creatures.
On my last dive here I found a pair of yellow-and-blue nudibranchs dancing on a small coral head, surrounded by a sparkling cloud of glassfish. There are moments when you forget this is the open sea – it feels like an underwater flower garden, perfect and quiet.
A memory that stays with me – Pemba at night
One night we stayed in the reserve area for a night dive. Nothing shows how pristine Pemba is like a dive like that. The bioluminescence here is especially strong – every movement of your hand leaves a trail of tiny stars.
Then, at 12 meters, a giant octopus appeared, changed color twice, looked at me with an almost human gaze and disappeared into a small hole between the corals. That moment has stayed with me ever since.
Why I keep coming back
- Because Pemba’s reefs are among the healthiest in the world, free of mass tourism.
- Because every dive here feels different, thanks to the currents, the topography and the wildness of nature.
- Because you feel you are discovering a new place every time, even after dozens of dives.
- Because the local teams are professional, warm and experienced – some have been diving since childhood.
In short – Pemba is not a destination, it is an experience
As someone who has dived in many places around the world, I can say: Pemba is one of the few places that manages to surprise me every single time. It is wild, quiet, colorful, deep, tough and gentle all at once. Anyone looking to combine complete calm with real adventure will find a home here.
Contact us for dates and prices.
