A series based on the Global Surf surf-lesson videos
In this series we take a deep look at the instructional videos we created for you and go over the key points that will help you develop your surfing, from the most basic tips to more advanced topics such as correct technique for turns and maneuvers on the wave.
First of all, anyone can surf. The feeling of being in the water – just you and your board – waiting for the right wave, paddling for it yourself and riding it is truly special. The combination of physical activity and a strong connection with nature makes surfing a unique sport followed by millions around the world. Like most sports, it takes practice, persistence and basic technique.
Lesson 1 – the structure of the board and how to carry it
To surf, we need a surfboard. There are many types of boards for different needs, styles and conditions, but some terms stay the same. The example in the video uses a soft-top learning board.
Learning boards are called soft tops because they are made of softer material than boards for advanced surfers. The soft deck protects you from knocks and injuries if you fall on the board in your first sessions. Learning boards are also usually large (length, width, thickness), which gives them high volume and buoyancy to help you in your first steps in the water.
Parts of the board
- Nose – the front of the board. It is curved upward (rocker) so the tip stays out of the water while you paddle for a wave.
- Tail – the back of the board. Tails come in many shapes – round, squash, square or diamond – and each affects how the board cuts through the water and responds to changes of direction.
- Rails – the outer edges of the board. They can be thick or thin, sharp or soft, and their shape affects how the board flows in the water.
- Deck – the whole top surface you lie and stand on while surfing.
- Bottom – the surface in contact with the water. It also comes in different shapes that affect the board’s hydrodynamics.
- Fins – the steering of the board. When the board has speed, the fins cut through the water and let it move forward with relative stability. Without fins the board would slide in every direction instead of holding its line.
- Leash – the cord that connects the board to your ankle. Leashes are usually made of urethane, flexible yet strong enough to withstand the power of the waves. The leash keeps you connected to the board so you do not lose it when it slips from your hands or when you fall. It is relatively long so the board does not spring back and hit you after a wipeout. Since a released board and a stretched leash can be dangerous to people around you, this brings us to carrying the board safely.
How to carry the board
The first time it matters how you hold the board is before you even reach the water. A board takes up space, especially a big learning board, so keep that in mind. When walking, hold the board under the armpit of your strong arm, nose pointing forward and fins towards your body. When you turn, remember that a board two meters long or more turns with you, so check there is nothing around you it could hit. If you are worried about hitting something, lift the board so the nose points up – this reduces the space it takes up and lets you move even where you cannot walk with it lengthwise.
The next important moment is entering the water. Here you will meet whitewater waves that have already broken, and you need to get past them with the board to reach the spot where you wait for waves. Whitewater can be strong, and if you do not hold the board correctly you risk hurting yourself or others.
Walk into the water with the board beside you, holding it across its width. If you cannot get your hand around the board in the middle, hold it further forward or back where it is narrower. When a wave comes towards you, lift the nose over it so the board slides over to the other side without being dragged back. Keep the board at 90 degrees to the incoming waves so it passes smoothly. If the board is parallel to the waves, it can catch the wave, flip and hit you or the people around you.
For safety: if a wave is too big to get the board over, check the area around you and make sure nobody could be hit by the board. Only then, hold the leash close to the board and dive under the wave. Holding the leash keeps the board close and lets you pass the wave without endangering anyone. We recommend never letting go of the board and diving, even if nobody is near you: the leash can stretch or snap, and you will not be able to control the board. Beyond protecting others, your board is your flotation device, so keep it close at all times.
Now that you know how to enter the water with your board, wait for the right timing and start paddling towards the break.
Next in the series: how to stand up on the board.
