The journey to Africa – surfing in Angola
After countless stories about the landscapes, the waves, the culture, the semba dancing and how unique the country is, it was finally my turn. Packed and ready, with boards for any sea I might meet, two wetsuits (a full and a spring suit), a few clothes and very little gear, I flew via Frankfurt to Luanda, Angola’s capital, excited for a different kind of surf trip.
For those who do not know it, the Republic of Angola lies in south-west Africa, north of desert Namibia and south of the tropical Congo. 1,650 km of coastline and countless natural bays create long, perfect waves that peel for hundreds of meters along Angola’s pristine beaches.
I could not sleep on the flight from excitement. The country opened to tourism only a few years ago; I did not know anyone who had been there and did not know what to expect. In Luanda a warm welcome was waiting: Bazuca Barros, Global Surf’s local partner in Angola – a friendly, smiling Portuguese guy born in Angola, a former pro surfer and one of the pioneers of surfing there – was holding a sign that said “Lucky Surfers”. I knew straight away it was me.
We set off in two 4x4s loaded with camping gear and everything needed for a journey along Angola’s wild coast. The landscapes caught my attention immediately – Africa is an amazing continent and you never know what to expect. Northern Angola is green and mountainous, with banana plantations, fields of crops and endless open spaces.
Starting out – Cabo Ledo
Our first stop was Angola’s most famous surf town, which I had never heard of before: Cabo Ledo. Waiting for us was one of the best waves I have ever seen – a long wave (up to 800 meters) peeling into a beautiful sandy bay. The swell was around a meter plus and the waves opened from the top of the point all the way to the beach. They break at an angle into the bay, so you feel you are surfing parallel to the shore. I spent about a minute on every wave, maneuver after maneuver, connecting section after section until my legs could no longer hold me. The paddle back is so long that it is better to get out and walk back to the peak. There are no words for the satisfaction and joy I felt after that session.
Catanas
With the pressure off, we started the journey relaxed and satisfied and headed south towards the Namib Desert. After about 3.5 hours we reached the first coastal town, a fishing village called Catanas – Portuguese for “machetes”. The name comes from the first surfers who found the village right after the end of the civil war in 2002. They arrived at the beach in the evening, hoping to camp and spend a quiet night, and were stunned to find the whole village waiting with machetes in hand – they did not know the war had ended. After a talk with the village leaders, the surfers were allowed to stay and sleep on the beach, and the name stuck.
Catanas is a long, quality left with long waves breaking over rock mixed with sand and pebbles. The waves are very friendly and fun, with a variety of sections for maneuvers.
The water was around 20°C and the air 26–27°C, with a pleasant sun that lets you surf in a vest and boardshorts – a treat. After the session we came out to find the crew had already set up camp: tents pitched and food on the table. Tired, full and happy, we went to sleep looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures.
After waking up to an amazing sunrise with morning coffee, we had another session at Catanas. Conditions had improved with the new swell and a light morning offshore breeze. We came in for a generous lunch, packed up, loaded the cars and continued south.
Heading south
Our next stop was Cabo Negro: a desert bay of stunning beauty overlooking a very long left point, with varied sections and surprising barrels. A fast drop and long walls roll along the whole bay over shallow sand, making it easy to get in and out of the water. It is a magical, pristine place, and the waves suit every level. Despite the long drive, the sight of the waves filled us with energy; we pulled on spring suits and ran out for an unforgettable sunset session. Afterwards we lit a fire, Bazuca cooked a delicious potjie, the guitars came out and we jammed – another amazing day.
In the morning, after another session at Cabo Negro that did not disappoint, we headed to Flamingo Lodge. The lodge sits in the middle of the desert facing stunning views and attracts surfers and anglers from around the world. You can choose comfortable rooms or the campsite, with toilets and hot showers. Having got used to camping, I chose the tents to keep the atmosphere – and so did the rest of the group, as it really is a unique experience.
We arrived around sunset and, after a hot shower, sat down to a hearty dinner of fish, potatoes, salads and cold beer – the perfect end to a perfect day.
The area has many points within an hour’s drive north or south. To the north are a series of bays known as the “Three Brothers”, three very long left points, plus a beach break called Fisherman’s that works best on a small swell.
To catch ideal conditions we left for the Three Brothers before sunrise, driving all the way along the shoreline in our 4x4s. The landscape was completely different from Angola’s green north: dunes and many natural bays, so untouched that in some places we made our own tracks. I felt I might be one of very few surfers who had ever surfed here.
From the top of the cliff we saw a perfect wave peeling into one of the bays – the “Little Brother”, breaking perfectly: 300 meters of perfect wall for maneuvers, with one barrel section, over sand and rock. We surfed it for three days while staying at Flamingo Lodge. The waves, the atmosphere, the views and the amazing food (I will never forget the perfect fish soup one evening) made for an experience I would repeat in a heartbeat.
Queen of the desert
From there we set out for our last and southernmost destination, deep in the Namib Desert: Tombua. This is THE wave – a heavy, long barrel over sand that reminded me a little of Puerto Escondido in Mexico. Unfortunately conditions were not ideal and were too challenging. On Bazuca’s advice we skipped the session and drove out along the open beach to see the shipwrecks in the area. Angola’s open spaces and endless Atlantic beaches remind you at every turn how pristine and wild the place still is – a truly humbling experience.
Despite our hopes for Tombua, we turned around and went back to Cabo Negro – which of course delivered, and we were lucky to catch a perfect sea. The waves are so long and generous that your leg muscles burn. However much you want to, you cannot get off the wave: the sections open one after another and pull you on and on.
As usual, a neat camp, a fire and dinner were waiting for us after the session – another magical end to a day full of new experiences.
The next day we surfed a wave called Salinas, breaking in front of a local fishing village, magical in its simplicity. The welcome was full of smiles and good energy. The scenery was amazing: desert, natural salt pans and a huge bay. Before leaving we bought fresh fish at the village market, straight out of the sea. We spent the night on a special natural cliff called Bentiaba, grilled fish, cooked a potjie and jammed to the sound of waves crashing on the rocks. The closeness to the ocean and the wildness of the place created an electric feeling.
The end of the journey
The next day we started back north towards Cabo Ledo, passing endless pristine waves nobody has surfed yet. Back in Cabo Ledo we found the same perfection as on the first day – head-high waves rolling from the first peak into the sandy bay, every wave feeling eternal. A perfect end to a perfect trip.
The drive back to Luanda airport was full of magical landscapes changing from sandy tones to green, and I could not believe the trip was over. Angola left me with deep appreciation for the open landscapes of West Africa and a big taste for more. This is how a real surf trip should feel! I will definitely be back to explore this amazing, pristine coastline.
Angola surf trip – the facts
- Surf season: May–October
- Swell: long period, from the south-west
- Wind: north-east to south-east
- Water temperature: 17–22°C
- Climate: tropical-desert
- Main attractions: the Namib Desert, national parks and nature reserves, the Kwanza river waterfalls and the stunning view of the Tundavala gorge
See our Angola surf trips or contact us.
